Ramos Pinto Quinta do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old Tawny Porto NV (750 ml)

Tightly wound, this delivers a wiry, focused beam of dried peach, date, green tea, almond husk and bergamot notes. Long, racy finish has excellent cut. Drink now.

The NV RP 20 Year Old Tawny Port Quinta do Bom Retiro is a single-quinta Tawny coming in with 126 grams of residual sugar and a bar-top cork. It was bottled in February 2020. This seems pretty much on track for what the brand normally shows, but it is especially enticing right now. It shows power, depth and spice. There are classic hints of caramel and a fresh feel. That wonderful freshness is what really sells this elegant Tawny and makes it irresistible. It is impeccably balanced. The lift to the fruit gives this some extra juiciness on the bright finish. On opening, it was a bit more ponderous, but it really woke up a couple of days later. This is pricey for a 20 Year, but it is certainly a terrific one. As always, the end-date drinking window is just a placeholder—these are very resistant and age indefinitely if there is no cork problem, although they are ready on release and do not need aging.

At 20 years, aged tawnies bear fruit and concentrated wood flavors, plus dry acidity. This is rich and poised, and it has a fine, full finish.

From Ramos Pinto’s estate across the river from Pinhão, this wine’s complexity starts from a green tea and dried leaf scent before it fills the mouth with juicy orange and rich oak flavors. It builds from austerity to riches, generous, warm and inviting.