La Staffa Rincrocca Verdicchio 2020 750ml

92 POINTS: VINOUS - I often think of the La Staa Verdicchios as Meursaults in a lineup of Chablis. The wines are all about tension, acidity and minerality, while many other producers rely on fat and fruit to impress. Owner and winemaker Riccardo Baldi tends 12 hectares of vines around the town of Staolo, growing at 400 to 550 meters through all-organic, verging on biodynamic practices. These are primarily clay soils with a high percentage of calcium carbonate, which Baldi translates beautifully into the finished wines. The best part is that no matter how enjoyable these wines are upon release, they get even better with time. There are no slouches in this portfolio. The 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Rincrocca opens slowly in the glass, subtle and nuanced, requiring coaxing to reveal its depths of crushed stone, green apples and lime. It washes across the palate, silky and rened yet mineral-intense, with stimulating acidity that tugs at the cheeks. Tart orchard fruits and savory herbal tones resonate throughout. It nishes long and full of zesty tension, leaving a salty tinge that cakes the palate. A crunchy sensation lingers on and on. The 2020 is just a baby today and full of potential.